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Wednesday, March 20, 2013

A TOUCH OF WARHOL...







Andy Warhol (1928-1987), was an American artist who was a leading figure in the visual art movement known as Pop Art. His work explore the relationship between artistic expression, celebrity culture and advertisement that flourished by the 1960s.  After a successful career as a commercial illustrator, Warhol became a renowned and sometimes controversial artist. 

Although best known for his silkscreen paintings, Andy Warhol was also an excellent draughtsman. Drawing was a constant part of his artistic practice. It was just this, his 'early work', the subject that, current creative Dior designer, Raf Simons chose like a leitmotif for his Fall 2013 Ready to wear collection, and that  he did under an agreement with the artist's foundation.

The Andy Warhol Museum in his native city, Pittsburgh Pennsylvania, holds an extensive permanent collection of art and archives. It is the largest museum in the Unite States dedicated to a single artist.


Andy Warhol early work:




Parker Tyler, the American author, poet and film critic, in Art News, December 1956, pointed out that Warhol’s shoes were fetishes. Shoes are one of Warhol's most frequently used motifs. Even before he began his illustrious career in Pop art, Warhol loved shoes and much of his early work was drawings of shoes. He did a whole collection of Diamond Dust shoe pieces.




Hand and Flowers, ca.1957. Offset lithograph and watercolor on paper Sheet Size 14 1/4 x 10 inches. 




Dior Collection:




Against a dreamy futuristic background of cloudy blue skies and  silvered spheres mirroring the idea of artistic clouds hanging across the room, that reflected models as they walked by the backdrop, Christian Dior presented their stunning Fall/Winter 2013/ 2014 Ready-To-Wear Collection.






While still respecting 'the codes' (Dior codes), Raf Simons with his particular surrealist style showed off a mix of reflective silhouettes, accentuating the waist, evoking the 'Bar' suit, but without neglecting the rectangle silhouette characteristic of the 20s.

Silhouettes that were moving between elegant tailoring, remembering the 'corolla line' (1947), but more morbids, and with less obvious construction, in the cloth coat dressing with the tuxedo style black lapels, and coats with a sash tie, very...very Dior, passing by a fully crocheted outfits, with winding peplum, and mix of textures like crochet with houndstooth, where the strapless neckline is the protagonist, in the surrealist bodices, touching leather textures, up to get a series of beautiful and very wearable languid chiffon dresses.












The predominant neutrals colors palette: black, gray, and white are beautifully contrasted with tones and tints like red, pink and ivory.







A focal point are the monochromatic high heels, in contrasting or prints, to underscore a very cool indented/reverse/half heel, complemented with monochromatic hand bags decorated with Warhol's shoes.

In this collection I saw Simons, more belonging to a Dior house.


Enjoy the collection...

Sunday, March 10, 2013

THE "FORD"...


"For whom are you in mourning Mademoiselle?" Paul Poiret asked Chanel. "Why, for you, Monsieur" she answered.


Prior to the 1920s black was often reserved for periods of mourning, But when in 1926 Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel published a picture of a short, simple black dress in American Vogue, the story changed. This dress made it, of black crepe de chine, knee- length and decorated only by a few diagonal lines, was comfortable and accessible for women of all social classes.





Vogue called it "Chanel's Ford", because its mass appeal rivaled that of the Model T, (The car produced by Henry Ford's Motor Company from September 1908 to October 1927).


                                     Henry Ford pictured with the Model T 


Vogue also said that the 'little black dress' would become "a sort of uniform for all women of taste".


The little "Ford" dress by Coco Chanel


After his publication in Vogue, the critics sneered at everything from its cut to its color, with rival designer Elsa Schiaparelli going so far as to dismiss the design as "widow's weeds", but the infallible Chanel brought the color black out of mourning away from the clergy, turning it into the very essence of Parisian chic. And yet "women immediately started wearing it," says Pamela Golbin, 20th-century curator of the Louvre's Museum of Fashion and Textiles".


Sketch of Coco Chanel wearing the 'Ford' dress, by Karl Lagerfeld current Creative Director of Chanel.



Since the famous little "Ford" dress created for Coco Chanel, every self-respecting couturier and fashion designer has brought out their own version, but the little black dress legend started with the little 'Ford' dress.


Mademoiselle Chanel's maxim: "A woman who doesn't wear a little black dress is a woman without a future".


Friday, March 1, 2013

THE 'GONDOLAS' CITY...






Last year I wrote twice in this blog about Medellin, the Colombia's second largest city, first when she was selected in a group of 25 cities including Hong Kong, Sao Paulo and Toronto, and the second time when she was placed among the top three most innovative cities, just behind Tel Aviv in Israel and New York in U.S., in a yearly contest run and sponsored by Citi, and the Marketing Services Department of  Wall Street Journal (WSJ) Magazine that teamed up with, the nonprofit organization, Urban Land Institute (ULI)  to award to a city, wherever in the world, the title of "Most Innovative City of 2012 ".

I am proud to mention that Medellin, the 'Gondolas' City, as today I named, won finally this honorable title like, The Most Innovative City of 2012Congratulations to all paisas.


















The gondolas connect the higher suburbs of the city with the major subway lines making transportation faster and more efficient.
See more at:  http://online.wsj.com/ad/cityoftheyear


The present:




The Metro of Medellin is quickly gaining a reputation for being one of the most innovative transit planning bodies on the planet and this project, the Green Corridors, should only solidify that reputation.

The future: